People/Religion/Transportation

Because we only met two Egyptians (other than waiters and store clerks), our tour guide and Egyptologist who traveled with us at all times, the only things I can relate about the people is from observations, so consider the source.

We were told that 90% of Egyptians are Muslim and 10 % Christian. There are 200 Jews living in Egypt and if you believe our guide, they get along famously. In Cairo we drove past the oldest Mosque in Egypt which was within view of a Christian church and a Jewish synagogue. Watching the people, most men dressed in the floor length shirt-like attire (thobe). However, you would see business men in western attire and the youth in jeans. There was a conspicuous absence (in my view) of women out and around. After school and at the end of the work day, you did see some women usually with head scarves and pants or long robes. Few places did you see women working. The morning is usually when women in the hijab (headscarf) and robes were out, I imagine to purchase food and things for the day. Whereas you saw men milling everywhere. I am sure this is because of the Islamic role of women. We saw very few Burkhas. Our Egyptologist was a Muslim woman but did not wear a scarf. She said it was optional. However, I assume she felt more comfortable (or thought we did) with all Americans without the scarf and in her bluejeans. Once we left the city and were on the river, we saw women only in the towns and then fully covered in religious garb. All the men working the fields wore the thobe; the ferry drivers, the camel owners, everyone had the long robe.

We heard the call to prayer five times a day: sunrise, noon, afternoon, sunset and evening. It could be heard everywhere. While we were watching a light show at the pyramids and the announcer was booming from the speakers, the calls were still heard.

In the evening, the population milling about changed. I saw numerous young couples, girls with headscarves and pants and the guys in western clothes. Seldom was a woman alone or even with other women. The numerous coffee shops had men sitting around smoking hookahs and having coffee or tea. One evening after our tour, our guide offered to take us to a tea house and hookah shop. It was very quaint. We sat on pillows on the floor. The walls and ceiling were carpets. We were served tea and the hookahs set out and each of us was given a plastic mouthpiece for smoking. A “band” came and serenaded us briefly with local instruments. You should have seen Cliff who has never smoked in his life. There was a lot of coughing around the room. I chose not to try. But I understand it gave a buzz. It was a true Arabian experience.

Because the city of Cairo is so large there is tremendous congestion with cars. But there was little to no traffic control. I saw no traffic lights. It seemed each man (99% male) for himself. And they drive with the horn. When we stepped onto the balcony of our hotel room, the noise was quite deafening. Once we got out of the city, the train followed the river and was a major form of transport. River taxis or ferries carried people across the river. Bridges were scarce. On the farms along the river, donkeys were prevalent as beasts of burden and transportation. I could see no roads , cars, or trucks, though there may have been some inland more.

Next edition, safety and security.